Tough to let go for 70-something fashion designers
(Agencies)
Updated: 2009-12-15 09:07
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The passing of the artistic torch is one of the most discussed subjects in the fashion world as it can make or break the survival of the brand -- but no fashion house is willing to talk about it officially.
Aside from Armani, the clock is ticking for a number of other fashion companies headed by 70-something designers including Ralph Lauren and Oscar de la Renta in the United States and Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel in France.
The question will also eventually pose itself for Donatella Versace and Miuccia Prada.
KEEPING MUM
Oscar de la Renta, whose founding designer is 77, did not respond to emailed requests for comments and the team behind Ralph Lauren, aged 70, also did not answer phone calls or emails about his succession.
Likewise, Chanel refused to be drawn on the subject.
"Karl Lagerfeld is the creative director of Chanel and enjoys a long-term contract which is absolutely not put into question," the fashion house told Reuters in an e-mailed statement. "His succession is not on the agenda."
German-born Lagerfeld, 71, has successfully kept Chanel's two-tone flat shoes, camelia brooches and woolen suits as luxury must-haves since 1983 while consistently refreshing the brand.
"Karl is not ready to pass on the torch," said Picart.
However, other people close to the maison say it is inconceivable that Chanel is not thinking about his succession.
Most fashion houses have several candidates in mind for the day when their top designer leaves but they keep the name secret to prevent their potential new recruit from being poached.
"King Giorgio" as he is called in his home country, Armani might not have said who will replace him but he has delegated more responsibility to non-family members.
He expanded the board with a new deputy chairman and appointed a finance director and general manager.
"Of course I am not eternal, there comes a time when you must hand it over," Armani told reporters in October in Moscow, where he staged two fashion shows.
Fashion veterans say founders often struggle to find a person good enough to replace them.
"He's (Armani) not the classic designer who wants to stay in the creative part and delegates the rest to managers," said Roberto Jorio Fili, a former executive at fashion houses Roberto Cavalli, Valentino and Gianfranco Ferre.
"Armani is the business. Not one person can replace him on their own, it would have to be several people and I think that's what he's probably thinking."