The low-temperature trout fillet with hazelnut crumble. [Photo by Ye Jun/China Daily]

Jakovljev has only worked here for three months, but the young French chef is building his team and finding the things people want here.

One of the most obvious characteristics of Chinese diners is that they do not prefer desserts as sweet as the Europeans do.

"Sometimes I'm surprised when I do a dish I think is difficult for the Chinese to appreciate, but it's the opposite," he says. "Other times I think most people will appreciate something, but people don't like it so much. So we have to find the balance."

Jakovljev wants to offer dishes that are different, but he would not go too far out on a limb. Instead, he prefers to prepare food from traditional recipes, but in a modern style.

"I want diners to feel at home, just as staying in the kitchen with my team is like being at home."

Because, Jakovljev believes, it is not about a job, but about life.

Contact the writer at yejun@chinadaily.com.cn.