If you go

Getting there

Air China, China Southern and several European and African airlines offer Beijing-Dar Es Salaam and Guangzhou-Dar Es Salaam flights, with round-trips starting around $1,100.

On the ground

In Stone Town take the opportunity to stay in one of the many traditional Zanzibari houses refurbished into boutique guesthouses.

Emerson Spice, the Zanzibar Coffee House and Beyt al Chai (all with charming, exquisitely decorated and spacious rooms) are the pick of the crop or, if you're on a budget, opt for the Clove Hotel and its alluring roof terrace. Mbweni Ruins Hotel is just outside the town and good choice if you want to be close to the lively action of Stone Town but not quite in the thick of it.

On the coast is the luxurious Chumbe Island Park (which is built on its own island). More rustic and affordable options include the funky, friendly Bellevue Guesthouse in Bwejuu, the excellent value Blue Oyster Hotel in Jambiani or the Cristal Resort in Page.

What to do:

There are the obvious must-dos: lounge on the beach, take a spice tour, visit the slave monuments, see the monkeys and giant tortoises, admire the Stone Town architecture. But beyond these are a few less-known gems.

The Jambiani village tour, run by Eco+Culture tours, is stellar. Insist on getting the ever-cheerful, fantastically insightful Jambiani local Kassim Mande as your guide - quite probably the best guide on Zanzibar. Evening yoga classes in the Mbweni ruins are a great way to get some exercise in a stunning, atmospheric place.