After our brief reprise, we continued walking, only to find the higher we got the tougher the hike, but we were soon rewarded with views of the city, cloaked in a dusting of smog.

Returning to the city, we headed out to eat, confident we could indulge after a tough day of hiking.

Seoul is a food lovers' paradise. Korean barbecue is delicious and restaurants serving the cuisine can be found everywhere. You will be given a selection of side dishes as standard - they are free and you can ask for refills. You then order your meat, bulgogi - a very popular type of marinated beef, which you cook over a hot plate in the middle of your table.

Kimchi - pickled cabbage - will almost always be served as a side dish. Sour and a little spicy, it is a must-try when you are in the country. Kimchi is to Korea what croissants are to France or hamburgers to the US. It's the taste of Korea.

Also popular is fried chicken. It's almost as ubiquitous as the coffee, and there is a good selection of Western restaurants. Very popular, and rightfully so, is Vatos Urban Tacos, a Mexican restaurant in the Itaewon area that offers kimchi tacos and giant frozen margaritas, all gobbled up by a hip crowd who seems to be there as much to be seen as to eat.

To get a glimpse of times past in this most modern of cities, head to the old Royal Palace. It is similar in layout to Chinese palaces, with buildings set around a courtyard. In the grounds is the very good National Museum that displays some very fine examples of Korean art, mostly oil paintings but also some mixed media, including cotton dyes and crochet.

The city itself is great to just wander through. The older part of town, which has been heavily gentrified, is perfect for a lazy afternoon of exploring. The old houses have been renovated into boutiques and cafes and throngs of tourists and well-heeled Koreans pack the streets, taking photos, shopping or passing the day in cafes.

After a long day of exploring, try the ultimate Korean experience - a Korean spa. The huge Dragon Hill spa is a good place to start. After paying the KRW13,000 ($12) entry you will be given a pajama set and let lose to wander through the spas, sauna and pools. You can get a massage or go eat a meal. A perfect way to end a day's sightseeing in Seoul.