Ta Phrom is key to any temple-hopping itinerary. Built as a Mahayana Buddhist monastery at the turn of the 13th century, it now ranks as a huge tourist draw. [Photo by Matt Hodges/Shanghai Star]

The Kingdom is growing up and moving on from its turbulent past while reviving the glory of earlier eras, as Matt Hodges discovers.

A decade of economic growth has seen Cambodia shake off its lawless image and move into the modern world, but only halfway, and not at the expense of its sense of humor. 

The beach huts and eco-resorts of Koh Rong and the southern islands are also coming into their own as a respite from the temple-hopping of Angkor Wat.

"We don't have 7-Eleven," said my tour guide as we lined up to take photos among the broken windows, hand-shaped tree roots and crumbling ruins of Ta Phrom temple in Siem Reap. "We have 6-Eleven."

Starbucks may not have arrived yet, but annual GDP growth of 6 percent at the hands of Cambodian People's Party leader Hun Sen has made this former French colonial outpost one of the best performers in Asia alongside China and Vietnam.

Phnom Penh has blossomed into a culinary capital.

Although its Central Market still offers tarantulas, cockroaches and fake gems, you can satisfy those exotic cravings with a plate of fried beef with giant red ants at Metro Hakkasan on the riverside. Don’t be surprised if a 2014 Porsche Cayenne parks up before you pay the bill.

Yet you are never far from Mother Nature, even in the fast-developing capital. It is this, together with an enchanting colonial hangover and a colorful if unsettling past that makes it such a special place to visit.

"We used to have quite a problem with the monkeys," says John Neutze, director of sales and marketing at Raffles Cambodia, two octogenarian Art Deco hotels.

"But with the increase in development in the area, we rarely see them nowadays."

At Raffles Hotel Le Royal in Phnom Penh, guests can start their day with a champagne breakfast and quick dip in the outdoor pool sheltered by century-old rainforest trees. At the Grand Hotel D’Angkor in Siem Reap, its grandiose pool is inspired by the ancient bathing pools of Khmer kings.