Beihai old street. [Photo by Pauline D. Loh/Shanghai Star]

Beihai old street

This is the historical core of town. The best way to explore it is by foot, starting off at the dilapidated old post office that dates back to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). The old street is a protected pedestrian mall, but you still have to avoid endless processions of scooters and bikes that think they have equal rights to the walkways.

It is an interesting stroll down memory lane, which reflects Beihai's past as a stop along the ancient maritime silk route. The site of the old water station with its twin wells and chandler's shop testify to Beihai's importance then.

The architecture mainly reflects the southern Chinese style, with upper stories that hang out over five-foot ways, forming covered corridors outside shop fronts –convenient for a rainy day.

Many buildings are already falling down through neglect, held up only by tenacious banyans with clinging aerial roots.

There are a couple of photography studios that do wedding location shoots just outside their own doors.

The Old Street is full of souvenir and snack shops selling Beihai’s signature prawn fritters and rice noodles, as well as pearls, some of which are ground into powder - to be consumed so complexions become pearly white.

There are also specialty shops selling coffee and other snacks from Vietnam, a testament both to the proximity, and close links the local Chinese have with emigrant relations across the border. Brewed coffee is offered in the evenings, often accompanied by lively entertainment from eager young musicians.