[Photo provided to China Daily]

A French general and a few touches of Regis

Even on a speck of an island in the Indian Ocean, the heritage of St Regis is palpably felt, partly through a tradition that can be traced back to Napolean Bonaparte and his soldiers.

Returning from victory, the soldiers, astride their horses, cut open the bottles of Champagne presented to them with the slash of a saber. We witnessed the ritual－one to welcome the evening－in Whale Bar, one of the many constructions on the island inspired by sea creatures.

That was probably before the general became Emperor of France. For those who are inclined toward a more refined way of wine-tasting, the chilled Decanter is the place to go. Underground with a sophisticated selection, the place sought to continue the aristocratic tradition of midnight supper, for those who can wake up at anytime they want.

Another Regis legacy also involves wines－this time Bloody Mary, introduced by a bartender at St. Regis New York in 1934. The hotel has been commemorating the iconic cocktail with every new opening, adding regional flavors to the original recipe to create a whole line of different varieties.

The Vommuli version, Island Mary, has among its ingredients a type of "black salt" indigenous to the local menu.

The Island Mary appeared before me in a large seashell with a straw. When I asked whether the shells come from the ocean outside our restaurant the waiter revealed that they undergo a much longer voyage－from China.