Experiencing the Greater Pearl River Delta during early years of development
My first incursion was in late August 1992 when colleagues in Guangzhou invited me to Jiangmen and nearby Xinhui located between the West and Xinyu Rivers. In '92 it was an introduction to lifestyles so different to my norms back in Scotland. Women drying tangerine peelings on quiet roads near a river where men squatted while playing cards: kindergarten children walking in line emerged from a park as we set off by small boat to explore mangrove forest swamps encroaching upon a bird island sanctuary. The geography of the area fascinated me-a level topography of fertile alluvium interspersed by hills that at one time were islands. I started to appreciate the relationship with multiple waterways. Although a benefit in the days of river-based commerce it would hinder development until the construction of a network of elevated highways swept over the channels.
Lying to the east of Jiangmen, Zhongshan has long been associated with one of modern China's great leaders, Dr Sun Yat-Sen, born on Nov 12, 1866, in nearby Cuiheng Village. In July 1993, heading south toward Zhuhai and Macau I spent time discovering Zhongshan's charms. The older city districts around busy Shiqi River featured examples of architecture I increasingly identified with southern Guangdong. Buildings built out and over pavements/sidewalks to protect against sun and rain.
I kept coming upon physical evidence of influence stemming from trade and movement along the fabled Maritime Silk Road. Kaiping sits alongside the Tanjiang River. Visiting Fengcai Middle School I was intrigued by architecture displaying possible Arabic influence. Rising in nearby counties were the amazing Diaolou Towers, resembling miniature fortified Manhattan skyscrapers built in some instances by people who had made their fortune in the US. Several such examples are also around Taishan, a city that would provide a positive introduction to the western delta geography, lifestyles, people and a city at the heart of China's historic outward migration.
