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"We now sell more than 100 ducks a day," Xu said. "My husband and I have to get up at around 3 am to simmer and roast the ducks. But we're satisfied with the money we make, which supports my family."

Zhou Hai, a manager at the Jinling Hotel in Nanjing, said that despite the secret recipe, the ducks it uses are chosen carefully to ensure a better taste.

"The ducks should weigh 1.9 to 2.1 kilograms, so that the meat is tender," he said. "The skin should remain intact after the duck is plucked so that the meat doesn't get too salty.

"After being salted and marinaded, the duck is cleaned and boiled in water at about 90 C to ensure the meat doesn't get dry too quickly."

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