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Nanjing duck dishes are mentioned in books dating to 2,300 years ago. During the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), there were already more than 100 duck shops in Nanjing.

The Empress Dowager Cixi (1835-1908) ordered 500 processed ducks every year from Nanjing, and at the state banquet to mark the founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949, the last dish to be served was salted duck.

In Nanjing, salted duck is also called osmanthus duck, because high-quality birds can be found in September and October, when the sweet-scented osmanthus plants blossom.

Tao Siyan, a professor with the art school at Southeast University in Nanjing, said geographical reasons have also contributed to the city's love for ducks.

"Surrounded by many rivers and lakes, including the Yangtze River, local people in ancient times raised many ducks that ate the shells and fish in the water. Local people have eaten duck for nearly 1,800 years.

"People used to reward soldiers with rice and ducks. They used salt to give duck meat a longer shelf life, and the special flavor gradually emerged."

Goose meat was also in high demand in ancient China. It was first used for sacrifices and then for banquets by rich families.

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