In the early morning light, Zhuan Ta Hutong comes to life. Narrow alleys glow with soft sunlight, casting long shadows across brick walls. The scent of street food mingles with the hum of daily life, such as the old bicycle carts, small courtyards and laundry swaying in the breeze.
Yue Haizhou, who has worked in the lane's management department for over two decades, enjoys walking through these lanes, witnessing the neighborhood's vibrant pulse as he has done for years.
But for Yue, a Beijing native who grew up in the hutong, this is more than just a neighborhood. "A walk through the hutong is a journey through Beijing's soul," she says. "Every step feels like a conversation with the city's heart."
Tucked beneath the skyscrapers of modern Beijing, Zhuan Ta Hutong stands as one of the oldest and most historically significant lanes in the city. Established during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), this narrow alley is the only one in Beijing to have a documented history spanning three dynasties: the Yuan, Ming, and Qing (1368-1911). In fact, it is often referred to as "the root of the hutong", a living testament to Beijing's deep history.
Stretching roughly 700 meters, from Xisi Nandajie (south street) in the east to Taipingqiao Street in the west, this hutong is not just about ancient architecture, but also the stories of influential people who once lived there, including Guan Hanqing, the famous playwright of the Yuan Dynasty and Lu Xun, the renowned writer of modern Chinese literature.
"For those eager to uncover the Beijing beneath the surface of modern life, there's no better place to start than here," says Yue, guiding visitors to the alley's hidden treasures.
One of them, located at the eastern entrance of Zhuan Ta Hutong, is the Zhengyang Bookstore. The bookstore, steeped in history itself, specializes in books about the history of Beijing and is famous for the Wansong Elder Pagoda — a nine-tiered brick structure that dates back to the Yuan Dynasty. The pagoda, nestled quietly in the yard of the bookstore, stands as a silent symbol of wisdom and tranquility.
"Old bookstores are like a treasure hunt for visitors," says Cui, the bookstore's founder and owner. "They offer rare finds and local gems you won‘t find anywhere else."
Cui notes that, for years, the bookstore also works with scholars to translate books about Beijing's history into multiple languages, such as English, Italian and Japanese.
"The courtyard, small and serene, had an old door panel that read: ‘Sit quietly when there‘s nothing to do, and read books when you're free’, which I loved," wrote a visitor, nicknamed Miao Miao, in a post on RedNote about a trip there in early February.
"I was also greeted by the meows of the bookstore's cat, Laifu, which was a nice bonus," Miao Miao added.
In 2025, the Hutong Roots Cultural Experience Center opened and has become a hub for people exploring Zhuan Ta Hutong. The center's tea-scented air and handcrafted souvenirs inspired by traditional courtyard designs provide visitors a tactile connection to the hutong's past. The second floor is an exhibition space, while the top-floor terrace offers a panoramic view of the area's rooftops with their curved eaves.
"It‘s a new hotspot for both locals and tourists," says Pei Chen, the hutong renewal project's general manager.
Despite Beijing's rapid development, the sense of community in the hutong remains strong. Pei, who grew up among the city's ancient alleyways, reflected on one of their most enduring charms: the community spirit. "In the hutong, neighbors know each other. There's a real sense of intimacy here that's hard to find in today's cities. It's a rare and valuable quality in a fast-moving world," he says.
"When you walk these lanes, you're connecting with a community that has endured for centuries. Perhaps you'll leave with a book, or maybe just a deeper sense of connection to a city that has always evolved, but remains deeply rooted in its past," he adds.
Travel Tips:
How to Get There: The easiest way to reach Zhuan Ta Hutong is by taking the subway to Xisi (Line 4). From there, it's a short walk south to the hutong.
Best Time to Visit: Early mornings or late afternoons are the best times to explore Zhuan Ta Hutong — you'll avoid the crowds and get to experience the neighborhood at its most serene.
Don't Miss: While you're in the area, be sure to check out other nearby attractions, such as Yangrou Hutong, home to the Geological Museum of China.
