In the West, connoisseurs willingly pay a premium to savor cheeses with odors so strong that lesser mortals may be felled with just a whiff, but which are prized for their rich complexity of taste. In China, a similar appreciation exists for luosifen, which is known for its aggressive fermented aroma.

Luosifen, or river snail rice noodles, is an iconic dish with a pungent smell. Originating in Liuzhou in the Guangxi Zhuang autonomous region, luosifen typically includes pickled bamboo shoots, fresh vegetables and peanuts, all served in a spicy broth flavored with river snails.

As global interest in China grows, appreciation for this richly flavored culinary creation is being shared by a growing number of foreigners who want to embrace the complexity of Chinese cuisine.

For years, 34-year-old New Zealander Shawn Christopher thought he knew Chinese food. He had eaten many meals at Chinese restaurants with lemon chicken, spring rolls and fried rice on their menus.

Then a new eatery opened recently in his native Christchurch.

"I was warned that the smell of luosifen might be too intense for me," Christopher said.

But he did not find it harsh at all.

"The broth is fresh, with all the layers — that deep pork bone richness, then the heat kicks in. Noodles are silky and soak up all that goodness," he said, adding, "And the deep-fried egg — dunk it in the soup, soak it all up … absolute magic."

In the past, luosifen sold overseas mainly catered to the Chinese diaspora. Now, with shops and manufacturers tinkering with flavors, more foreigners are beginning to try the dish and are falling in love with it.

At the research facility of Guangxi Luobawang Food Technology in Liuzhou, technicians have been tweaking the flavor profile for international palates. They have developed a version that is less sour, less spicy and takes five minutes to cook.

"We need to preserve the essence while making it more acceptable to foreign consumers," said Yao Hanlin, chairman of the company, which has built a sales network spanning more than 30 countries and notched up nearly $20 million in exports.

The trend is also visible on social media. Posts featuring "foreigners trying out luosifen" have surged on Xiaohongshu, or RedNote.

Lu Shichang, director of the luosifen industry development center at the Liuzhou Bureau of Commerce, said the transformation of luosifen from a local street snack into a globally recognized brand "did not happen by accident".

Since 2016, the city has rolled out more than 40 targeted policies to help regional specialties expand their global reach, Lu said.

As the distinctive aroma of luosifen wafts through social media worldwide, it is winning hearts and stomachs among a growing legion of young people, Lu added.

Order tips

To savor that authentic taste of a bowl of luosifen, here are the must-order toppings

Core essentials: Pickled bamboo shoots, fried tofu skin, fried peanuts, pickled green beans and radish, and wood ear mushrooms

Recommended add-ons: Fried egg, duck feet, braised pork trotters, quail eggs and lettuce

Customizations: You can adjust the level of chili oil and vinegar. A popular alternative to the soup version is one where noodles are mixed with a concentrated sauce, fried toppings and red oil.

wangkeju@chinadaily.com.cn