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Brewing success from the bean

With over a century of cultivation experience, Yunnan is winning recognition from global markets, Xu Lin and Li Yingqing report.

By Xu Lin and Li Yingqing????|????CHINA DAILY????|???? Updated: 2026-03-23 08:25

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Growers inspect the quality of freshly processed green coffee beans. [Photo by Yan Sanka for China Daily]

Instead of just letting nature take its course, Menglian's coffee growers are now farming with both intention and science: choosing higher altitudes, embracing ecological practices, and managing fertilization more precisely.

"They're thinking about building their own coffee brands. They once worked in isolation, and now they're joining forces — attending exhibitions together and promoting local coffee collectively," he says.

His team runs the daily operations of a government-supported "village coffee community" established last year in Mangzhang village — with a coffeehouse, lodging and public space that provides affordable living and dining, attracting "digital nomads" from across the country.

"It's a way to attract more talent to the county. We can help these digital nomads connect with local job opportunities that match their skills. For example, local coffee businesses need designers for branding and e-commerce specialists," he says.

Mark Respinger, CEO of Manlao River Coffee, a specialty coffee roasting company based in Kunming, recalls that compared with the time when he first visited Yunnan in the 2000s, the coffee industry has undergone a radical transformation. "Chinese domestic consumption has become the primary engine for growth," he says.

"We are seeing second — and third-generation farmers who have grown up with coffee. They possess a deep, personal connection to the land and a passion for the craft. Today, you can visit farms in the remotest parts of Yunnan and be treated to exceptional coffees."

He says that as for coffee varieties, catimor is no longer the sole focus and has been supplemented by typica, bourbon, and geisha. Traditional washed processing has been joined by naturals, honey processes, and sophisticated anaerobic fermentation methods.

Many local producers are now experimenting with alternative fermentations to process Yunnan's emerging small-grain coffee beans, with each lot possessing unique and localized characteristics. "This diversity makes Yunnan an exciting 'new frontier' for roasters looking for distinct flavor profiles," he says.

Chen Meiling contributed to this story.

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